One of my favourite things about craft is problem solving. There is always a new technique to try, and challenges to puzzle my way through.* Even though I’ve been knitting for 13 years, and feel confident in tackling most projects, there is always something new to learn. In the process of knitting the Armande Cardigan by Andi Satterlund (still on the needles), I’ve encountered a few challenges and learnt more about knitting along the way.

The first lesson is a big one! It’s about tension. I’ve known for a while now that my tensions in knitting flat and in the round are vastly different, to the point where I have to change several needle sizes to match them. Even so, I’ve never quite managed a smooth transition between the two, such as where a short row sleeve cap changes from short rows in the flat to the rest of the sleeve in the round.
I was determined to resolve this problem, and set out experimenting with the Wool of the Andes I picked for this project. Combined knitting worked, sorta – I’ve used it for years in ribbing to tighten things up, but it hurts my hands too much to use for a whole project. Besides, it produced a very unsightly, too-tight swatch for stockinette in the flat.

With a bit more research, I learned my problem is rowing out: where very loose purl stitches are so much larger than the knit stitches in the same fabric, that they affect the gauge and create a distinctive line in the knitted fabric. It’s obviously been a problem for me some time – just look at the rowing out in my Anouk Cardi (below)! I can’t believe I didn’t notice it until now.
On the advice of forum posts, I tried to work purl rows with a much smaller needle. This didn’t really do much, and the mismatch in the needle sizes required was too great to be practical (the row gauges of 5mm and 3mm needles don’t really match).
And finally, I came across a solution. Nibbles & Bytes’ rowing out solution #1,849,113, a simple method of adding more tension to the purl stitches as they were formed, worked a treat. After pulling the loop of the purl stitch through, you position the right needle under the left at a 90 degree angle, before slipping the previous stitch off. Note that I knit in the “flicking” style, which is essentially a modification of the right-hand English method which is easier on the wrists. You might not even have this problem if you knit Continental!
It took a bit of practice (one baby layette, to be precise) but I’ve finally achieved even tension in the flat. Guys, my gauge in the flat is the same as in the round! I don’t even have to change needles during a project, and my ribbing is tight and even. What a revelation.

This has become a wordy post (is anyone surprised?), so I’ll share my second lesson with you next time!

*To paraphrase someone in a chronic illness support group: if I’m thinking about knitting, I don’t have to think about being sick!
This all sounds marvellously intriguing. So far I have purchased some wool and a book of stitches – both second hand – and that’s as far as I have got. Time to get some lessons!
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Definitely! Knitting is very therapeutic. And of course another chance to make unique garments and accessories!
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Now I have to run and inspect my knitting! You gave me a new potential problem to worry about. Thanks a bunch, Siobhan
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Haha 🙂 It’s really not a problem if it doesn’t bother you. For me, realising this issue existed and rectifying it was a huge relief, because I’d struggled so much with achieving even tension in the flat in the past, and my cables and ribbing were very loose and wonky.
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This is fascinating. Never had the problem but then I knit with the right hand needle under my arm which does the right-handed thing naturally! You have however made me realise that the stitches on the jumper I am wearing which I knitted in the round are asymmetric, so instead of straight Vs, one side merges into a smooth line and the other side is a series of bars. Gives a sort of ribbed effect. Not like that on the socks I’ve just knitted, So gives me a problem of my own to figure out!
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I bet you get some good speed with your lever knitting! Your comment reminded me of this article in Knitty: http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall05/FEATwhyply.html
Perhaps it’s due to the nature of the yarn?
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I might be. The jumper is knitted is merino wool and my first pair of knitted socks also knitted in merino wool seem to have developed the same alignment of stitches.
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Hm, I’ve knit with plenty of merino before and never had that problem. Anyway, I hope you find your answer!
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No! Thanks for the article. It explains what is happening perfectly. Not so much the fibre more the way it is made into yarn. I have learnt something new! I also read some of your stuff about ME/CFS. I have it too but only since I was about 50. So I really sympathise with your situation.
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Truly! Arting and Crafting is all about problem-solving. What a beautiful and bright cardigan!
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It is really lovely. Andi has some fantastic designs. I reckon most of the garments I’ve made have been based on her patterns!
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I developed a problem with rowing out a few years ago- I didn’t even know there was a name for it! I am going to have to try this method. I am an English knitter (though I can knit continental, I generally only do this for fair isle) but I imagine the technique is similar
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There’s not much difference between English and flicking style knitting. You hold the yarn in your right hand in both cases, so this technique should work!
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I guess I have this same problem! I’ll have to try your technique.
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I hope it works! All credit to the clever blogger at Nibbles & Bytes who came up with it.
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Wow! Congratulations on figuring that out! I didn’t even know that could be a problem. I feel like I need to check my knitting, now!
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Haha, I hope I haven’t scared people off their knitting! I’m just glad I have even tension now.
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