I mentioned in my post about my Ottobre 5/2016 tee that I liked the turtleneck style so much, I quickly moved on to the Named Paola Turtleneck Tee. When I started this project, I realised this was the ideal opportunity to use up some neglected fabrics in my stash, and make the perfect (or perfectly daggy) 70s outfit.
Let’s start with the Named Paola Turtleneck Tee. It sewed up without a hitch, and the fit was spot-on. All I changed was to add a few cm’s length to the body when cutting, which was the right decision – this top is quite short when you consider it’s drafted for a 172cm tall body. The hems are twin needled down and the shoulders stabilised with clear elastic from Aliexpress, which is the only elastic my overlocker will tolerate sewing (perhaps because it is so thin).
The fabric is cotton/spandex knit from The Remnant Warehouse, which is as lovely as the fabrics I used to sew the Ottobre and Mandy tees were crummy. It is hefty and warm (for a tee fabric), with a lot of stretch and recovery. The surface is completely smooth and pill-free, and remained so after a wash.
It’s the perfect match for the fabric from which I made the skirt. This is an interesting coated cotton/spandex in a lovely rust colour which I intended for stretch pants, but it ended up being far too lightweight for that purpose. I had no idea what to do with it until I was planning the Paola and realised it would make a fantastic matching skirt.
The skirt pattern I used, Ottobre Autumn/Winter 5/2016 #6 math teacher – tweed skirt, is as well-drafted and uninteresting to review as the Named Paola. It’s nice to sew patterns which have no problems, but there isn’t much to talk about in the review!
As my fabric had a considerable amount of stretch, I had to take in the waistband 6.6cm, and deepen the pleats to match (I didn’t stitch these down as my stomach really needed the room!). This is no reflection on the pattern, which was drafted for a non-stretch woven and would have been the perfect fit had I used an appropriate fabric. I also extended the invisible zip up through the waistband, rather than sewing an overlap as the pattern instructed. An overlap finish makes sense in a lofty wool fabric like that used in the sample, as the thickness of the fabric in the waistband would impede the zip mechanism, but in a lightweight cotton that wasn’t a concern.
As I commented on Instagram, my outfit turned out a bit Velma from Scooby Doo – and I like it! I enjoyed sewing it up and would recommend Ottobre and Named patterns to anyone who wants a well drafted pattern that is easy to sew.
Pattern: Named Paola Turtleneck Tee
Pattern details: Classic, semi-fitted turtleneck tee with full-length sleeves and a turtleneck collar. Available as a PDF download (A4 or copyshop) or a printed pattern, sizes 32-50.
Fabric: 2m x 145cm 2way Stretch Cotton Jersey- Burnt Brown #694, cotton/elastane from The Remnant Warehouse.
Other materials: Clear elastic to stabilise shoulders, from Aliexpress.
Mods: Size 42 bust and shoulders, 44 hip
– Added 2cm length to the hem and sewed shorter hem allowance for more length
– Pressed shoulder seam allowances back (personal preference, pattern says towards front)
Pattern: Ottobre Autumn/Winter 5/2016 #6 math teacher – tweed skirt
Pattern details: Pleated skirt in the very trendy just-below-the-knee length. It has slanted hip pockets on the front and an invisible zipper in the centre-back seam. Available as a traced magazine pattern, sizes 34-52.
Fabric: 2.5m x 115cm Stretch Coated Cotton- Terracotta from The Remnant Warehouse. Cotton / Spandex.
Other materials: Tessuti lightweight interfacing, for waistband and fusetaping zip and pocket areas. 35cm Birch invisible zip in nectar.
Mods: Size 42
– Used slightly longer zip than called for to extend all the way up waistband, rather than sewing a zip with overlapped waistband closure
– Took in waistband 6.6cm due to stretch of fabric, widened pleats to 5cm each to match
– Did not stitch pleats down
– Sewed slightly smaller hem for more length