If you’re a regular reader of my blog, you’ll know my love for Burda and their shirt patterns in particular. A couple of years back, I made the Burda 04/2010 #114 long-sleeved blouse which became my most-loved and worn button up shirt. When it finally hit the dust (RIP shirt), I didn’t think twice before replacing it.
This time round, I sized up in the shoulder for a bit more breathing room, and a more even transition to the larger hip curve. I repeated my stylistic change of adding a tower placket to the shirt sleeve, with a cuff to match, and reduced the sleeve cap ease as needed (I’ve noticed Burda drafts very puffy sleeve caps).
The right button placket was created using my favourite technique, with a fold-under placket on left. This allows each front half to be cut in one piece, rather than fiddling with tricksy button band pieces (which have to be interfaced, ugh). I also felt it matched the fabric in giving the shirt a classic men’s formal shirt vibe, a la Turnbull & Asser.*
As my previous shirt was made from a hole-ridden nightmare, I decided to treat myself to some Robert Kaufman shirting fabric. This is his Ivy Pinpoint Oxford which I bought from Fabric.com – a decision I did not make lightly considering the abysmal Aussie dollar and outrageous international postage costs.
I was not disappointed with my purchase. This fabric is so thick and lush, with a beautiful hand. It’s something I would imagine a formal men’s shirt would be made from. While thick and almost stiff during sewing, the fabric softened up to the most buttery feel with a lovely drape after washing.** Partnered with some thick buttons from Aliexpress, it just makes this shirt feel so damned fancy. (I buy all my buttons there now as the quality and price is unsurpassed.)
What I am displeased with is the couple of little stains on my beautiful expensive cotton shirting. Despite using Frixion pens for years without issues and even testing them on this fabric specifically, for some reason the purple pen I used to mark the CB collar line left a faint, but noticeable, stain.*** (I marked the CB line as I’d sewn and fucked up the collar twice already, and was slightly cavalier in my frustration to cut the third from whatever minute scraps were remaining.)
There is also a brown mark in a portion of the pocket topstitching, which I at first assumed was the same. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the thread in that area had picked up some machine oil, which of course refuses to totally wash out. Now that I’ve worn and washed it a few times, I don’t really care, but it’s one of those niggly things that drives you to distraction when you’re deep in the zone of a particular project.
So, this is basically the perfect shirt for me. If I was being picky, I’d shorten the cuffs slightly as they drape a little over my hands when unbuttoned, but it’s nothing that will stop me wearing this shirt all winter long. Isn’t it nice when you’ve finally perfected a pattern (+ fabric combo) to your liking?
Pattern: Burda Long Sleeved Blouse 04/2010 #114
Pattern details: “This classic long-sleeve button-up blouse features a single breast pocket and darts for a flattering and feminine fit. Make it in a bold kelly green or orange and pair with white trousers for a clean summer outfit.” Available from Burdastyle magazine, April 2010, or as an A4 PDF download. Sizes 38-46. No seam allowances added. PDF comes with 2 shirt and 1 dress variations (#114-116).
Fabric: 2.5yds (2.29m) x 57″ (145cm) wide Robert Kaufman Ivy Pinpoint Oxford – White, from Fabric.com. 100% cotton, 4.04 oz per square yard. “From Robert Kaufman, this oxford shirting features an oxford weave, smooth hand and full bodied drape. Perfect for creating dress shirts, blouses and fuller skirts. It features cross threads of white.”
Other materials: Sheerweft interfacing. Buttons from Aliexpress.
Mods: Size 42 bust to size 44 hips.
– 1/2″ forward head adjustment, same to sleeve cap; lowered front neck 6mm to smooth out curve created by this adjustment
– Approx. 8mm height removed from sleeve cap and some width to reduce ease to approx. 6mm either side of shoulder notch
– Added 1.5cm length to hem (+1.5cm hem allowance)
– Changed right shirt buttonband to 3cm faux separate buttonband, left to 3cm fold under
– Added 11mm to CB collar/stand on fold (2.2cm total) to true and match wider 3cm buttonband
– Added self-drafted tower placket to sleeve with cuff to match width
*No, I don’t really think I’m as good as Turnbull & Asser. I just want to wear a shirt that James Bond would.
**It didn’t stain ANYWHERE else in the whole damn shirt, including the undercollar which I marked in the same way.