
Yes, I know. I’m probably the last person in the world to jump on the mask-sewing bandwagon. Why now? After a brief, hopeful period that Australia would go the same way as New Zealand in eliminating the virus, it seems that we are in a full-blown second wave, led by my state of Victoria.
It’s largely concentrated in Melbourne but there are some cases in regional Victoria where I live, and the state government has suggested wearing cloth masks were social distancing can’t be observed (mandated in Melbourne).
In making cloth masks, I wanted to keep accessibility foremost in my mind. So I turned to Rebirth Garments for inspiration, who have been selling masks with a clear vinyl window through which to see your face. This is designed to be of benefit the D/deaf/hard of hearing community, neurodiverse people, people who may not speak your language and others who rely on facial expression for context.
I trialled a few patterns to see if there was a particular shape or sewing method I preferred. For each mask, I used quilting cotton for the outer, calico for the inner, and a nose wire to keep the shape. The nose wire material, insertion method and ties varied between masks.
Rebirth Garments Face Mask with Window

Description: fitted mask with nose and chin darts plus side pleats, optional nose wire, choice of head ties/elastics, 3 layers including 2 x cotton and 1 x interfacing. Free from Rebirth Garments with optional donation for them to make more masks for protestors.
Materials: scraps of Spotlight quilting cotton, calico from Lincraft, clear vinyl offcut from Clark Rubber, fusible woven interfacing, 20G jewellery wire from Lincraft, 12mm elastic, 12mm wide cotton webbing for ties.
Thoughts: Excellent fit – tight around the perimeter of the mask but enough room in the mask so it doesn’t touch in the inner portion. I like the choice of ties and used elastic at the top, ties at the bottom so you could position the mask using elastic before tying tight.
However, I had some issues with construction. The hole seam allowances and then the vinyl itself is glued into place using tacky glue, and lemme tell you that shit is budgeproof. Once on, it wouldn’t move without entirely ripping the fabric. Furthermore, the chin darts are sewn after inserting the vinyl window, but protrude into the vinyl seam allowance, so they are impossible to sew after the vinyl is glued into place. I had to hand sew them from the outside, which was no easy task given the vinyl was in the way.
This might be a scale error or problem of my own, but next time I’d construct it much like the Cricut mask below: sew darts first, sew top and bottom together and turn out, then insert the vinyl by feel, turn in the side edges and edgestitch before pleating. That would give a clean finish as opposed to the overlocked edges of this pattern.
Would I make it again: probably, the fit is great and I like the elastic/tie finish. I’d alter the construction method.


SSOL Smile Masks

Description: origami-style rectangular mask with top and bottom stitched pleat for shaping and ear loops in casings. Free from the Sewing Seeds of Love YouTube channel – they also have an updated video with a removable vinyl panel and nose wire.
Materials: scraps of Spotlight quilting cotton, calico from Lincraft, clear vinyl offcut from Clark Rubber, very thin twist tie from Cheap as Chips, bias tape for nose wire casing, 3.5cm x 148cm cotton/elastane strip of knit fabric for ties.
Thoughts: I really didn’t expect this mask to fit at all given its simplicity, but it was my clear favourite! I don’t know how, but it fit well around the face while again giving enough room in the mouth area. I think the fit would be a lot better with ear loops as specified in the pattern, but I didn’t see how they’d work with my chunky glasses and eczema behind the ears.
Plus, the construction was super simple! The vinyl was set in flat which was so much easier than trying to force it to a rounded shape. This mask would be very easy to churn out, production-style.
Would I make it again: yes! Though I’m undecided on tie material. Any thoughts for soft ear loop elastic which won’t interfere with glasses? Fold over elastic, perhaps?
Cricut Face Mask with Window


Description: shaped mask with seamed nose and chin, choice of ties and fully enclosed seam allowances. Free from the Cricut website in sizes adult L, SM/MD, and child L, SM/MD.
Materials: scraps of Spotlight quilting cotton, calico from Lincraft, clear vinyl offcut from Clark Rubber, very thin twist tie from Cheap as Chips, bias tape for nose wire casing, 12mm elastic, 12mm wide cotton webbing for ties.
Thoughts: I think you can see how poorly this one fits! I obviously made the wrong choice in sewing an adult L. Which is baffling, seeing as I’m usually a men’s L in hats due to my ginormous head. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
However this had great instructions for a fully enclosed mask, and I’m sure the variety of sizes would fit a variety of head shapes, given you choose the right size! This was the only one of the three that offered different sizes.
Would I make it again: look, I can’t be bothered making another size just to hope it will fit. Nah.

A Q&A:
Do they fog up?
This was the question I was asked most about on Instagram. There are various methods for preventing fogging, like smearing a surfactant on the vinyl, using anti-fog spray for glasses or the creative behind Rebirth Garments is currently sourcing more expensive anti-fog vinyl for their masks.
I used washing-up detergent to prevent some initial steaming of the vinyl, and it worked. The surfactant prevents little beads of water from forming on the vinyl. However, it didn’t stop the inevitable build-up of actual watery condensation, and I don’t think anything will – it’s just physics! Close fitting mask + hot breath vs colder air outside mask = condensation. I’m not sure what the answer is here.


Do your glasses fog up?
Surprisingly, no. My glasses seem to fog up in small patches at random moments throughout the day even when I’m not wearing a mask, so I assumed this would make the problem much worse. There was a little steaming sometimes when I would breathe out, which didn’t obscure my vision and immediately dissipated. But in general, they didn’t fog at all. this could be because I used nose wires, though they didn’t create a perfect fit in every mask.
Don’t you know the Victorian State Government has recommended 3 layers in every mask, with the outer layer being a water-resistant polyester such as that used in reusable grocery bags?
Well, yes, seeing as I’m asking myself this hypothetical question. 1. They hadn’t released these guidelines when I began making masks. 2. Cloth masks aren’t a perfect solution, they’re just “good enough”, so my masks are the same. 3. There is evidence suggesting quilting cotton is a valuable mask-making material due to its tight weave. 4. If it’s good enough for the CDC, it’s good enough for me.
What’s your preferred materials? Method of construction? Shape?
I used the same basic fabric for each mask so can’t comment on that. But as for nose wire, the 20G jewellery wire was much more effective than the very thin twist tie, which didn’t hold its shape. A thicker twist tie might be more effective. The jewellery wire also withstood hot hand washing (as did the vinyl!) but I wouldn’t chuck it in with an actual machine wash.

I also much preferred sewing the nose wire in a topstitched bias casing than inserting in between layers and topstitching. It’s much easier, and allows for replacement if the wire breaks or you decide to change out for another material.
Final thoughts?
Personally, I can’t see a way around the condensation occurring on the vinyl – it makes these masks practically unusable for their desired purpose. You need a tight fit for best droplet control, but it’s this fit which encourages condensation to build up inside the mask. Others in my disability groups have confirmed this experience, but if you have any answers to this conundrum, lemme know!
So it was a bit of a fib when I said I’d make the SSOL Smile Mask and Rebirth Garments mask again. I will, but will omit the clear vinyl panel and make plain cloth masks. I plan on experimenting with ear loops with the SSOL Smile Mask and will include bias tape casing with jewellery wire for the nose piece. I will also use poly chiffon as an inner layer, which I’ve read forms an electrostatic barrier against droplets.
Let me know if you are making masks, and which pattern/style you prefer!
How timely as I am in the process of making a few masks today, ready for Thursday. I do wish I could think of a solution for the window masks as I totally understand the need for something like them.
I am making mine with just quilting cotton and silk for me and my mum, however a girlfriend has asked for the three layers, so am sandwiching the poly in the middle for hers. Perhaps if they put out pretty patterned poly propylene fabric I *might* consider it! (I did consider painting some, but seriously, how much time is a girl to spend on these?!)
Stay safe Siobhan😊
Cheers
Sharron
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I had someone comment that the small window for a mask wouldn’t be very effective in their lipread anyway, as it involves reading the expression of the whole face, not just the lip area. So face shields might be the only other option.
Quilting cotton and silk sounds lovely! I actually made a mockup using a reusable grocery bag, aka polypropylene, and it wasn’t too bad to breathe through. It might make a good inner layer though! Not sure where to find any.
Stay safe too!
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I bought a plastic thingie on Amazon that is a copy of something I saw a kid invent using his 3D printer a few months ago – it basically hooks onto the ear elastic and goes across the back of your head. I’ve just got it, so I haven’t really tested it yet; but it removes the pressure on my ears, snugs the mask up closer to my face, and because there are several options, it’s adjustable. You can make something similar with buttons either end of a strip of wide elastic (the elastic with a squiggle of silicone to stop bike shorts riding up would be perfect to keep it from sliding around on your head).
I’m in Melbourne and I had pneumonia three times last year, so I rarely leave the house. Fortunately, there are very few cases out here on Mt Dandenong, but that could also be because it’s half an hour to the nearest testing site.
Look after yourself, and stay safe!
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Oh yes, I know what you mean! There have been knitwear/crochet designers making patterns for the same concept, a strip of knit/crocheted fabric with buttons on the end.
Pneumonia 3 times in one year sounds like a terrible time! And terrible luck! No wonder you’re staying at home. Stay safe and look after yourself.
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Thanks for such a thorough review. I discovered chin darts for myself as a post hoc adjustment to regular pleated masks. Seeing how much better a darted mask fit, I was planning to try Dhurata Davies darted mask and Splat’s origami mask, both of which look like alternative iterations of masks you trialled. The success of your origami masks means I’ll try Aplat first. Its one size fits all will also make it easier to make masks for my daughter and her partner in Melbourne, from my location in Queensland, without individual measurements or fitting.
I use half a pipe cleaner for nose wire, which works great. After reviewing research testing effectiveness of replaceable filters in cloth masks, I found non fusible, non woven interfacing is a readily available and cheap option that has the required characteristics. I don’t have confidence in the stability of permanent iron in non woven interfacing for maintaining effective filtration after repeated washing. The No Fog Mask hack below, insert rolled tissue across bridge of nose under mask, is the only thing that stops my masks fogging, despite nose wire.
https://dhuratadavies.com/blogs/things-i-make-and-do/free-face-mask-pattern-and-tutorial
https://aplat.com/blogs/shus-notebook/diy-cloth-face-mask
https://youmakeitsimple.com/2020/05/no-fog-face-mask-simple-hack-that-really-works/
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Thanks for the info, Karey! You’re right the Dhurata Davies mask looks a lot like the Rebirth Garments mask, and the Aplat Mask is a simpler version of the SSOL Smile Mask. I’ve also read good things about the Japanese Sewing Books Contoured 3D Face Mask but it was so similar to the SSOL mask I decided to not go ahead with it. However, it comes in a range of sizes which the smile mask does not. I prefer the idea of topstitched pleats (which the SSOL Smile Mask & Japanese Sewing Books mask have, but the Aplat mask does not) because then you don’t have to iron it to shape every time you wear it.
Which non woven interfacing do you use? I’m not totally familiar with them and have had really bad experiences with some poor quality interfacing basically disintegrating in the wash so I’m loathe to try it.
http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/2020/06/20/free-mask-pattern-download-contoured-3d-face-mask/
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Hi Siobhan. I’m not sewing interfacing in, but using it as disposable filter, which is what was recommended by the research. I’ve had that experience with nonwoven interfacing too, which is why I pretty much stick to woven and knitted interfacing for sewing. But for one use, inserted into the cotton mask, interfacing repels water droplets, which is what is recommended for a filter.
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Ah, clever! Yes there’s nothing worse than putting a garment through the wash and seeing the interfacing ruined.
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M Recht have reliably good iron on interfacing, and will send samples to test.
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Good idea! M Recht are fabulous.
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The group I’m with, making scrubs etc for the NHS, also make headbands with buttons on for the mask elastic to loop over. I have made all of mine so far with just three layers of cotton or poly cotton. I’d heard about the chiffon/poly/silk layer but then read it discredited, so I haven’t bothered as yet. I like soft NARROW twill tape for a continuous tie fastening.
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I’ve got some twill tape for an optional head tie for those who don’t like ear loops or knit/elastic ties. I hate sewing the ends down but it beats making bias tape!
Where did you read about the chiffon/silk? I’ve got a couple of papers, one from April and one from June 26 which both support the use of chiffon in conjunction with high thread count cotton as one of the most efficacious combinations in filtering particles. I hope I’m not wrong, because I’ve made near 50 masks with chiffon in the middle!
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It was some article linked on FB a few weeks ago, but then I read others which said it wasn’t conclusive, and that any 3 layers was fine. The one thing I was concerned about was the potential for a silk layer to make them much hotter- I hate over-heating! I don’t think anyone is 100% about any of the mask data, unless you’re looking at medical quality. I watched a Youtube video of a doctor who’d been making and testing them with the tech they have to use to check they’re masked up correctly. She was using the uber posh and pricey tech fabric, which is hard to get here, and not worth it unless that level of protection is vital.
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I agree re: the mask data. Like I said in my post, this is a “good enough” solution. And the research I’ve been reading suggests it doesn’t matter how great the filtration of your fabric is, if there’s even a 1cm gap it diminishes significantly. So I’ve been focused on getting a good fit, and when sewing for others finding a pattern that will fit as many people as well as possible.
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