Nothing like the end of year for some slapdash posting about the garments I made in 2020. To be honest, I didn’t sew or knit that much: between my concussion, other family member’s debilitating health concerns, a massive relapse and living in a society with people who value their desire for a monthly holiday over Disabled people’s right to live, my brain and body were in no state for any kind of demanding motor/mental task.
Anyway, I made a few things, including these tops. Like many others, this project was born of a need for a specific garment in my wardrobe: a long sleeved turtleneck top, semi-fitted, with the collar close enough to keep me warm, but loose enough to allow room to breathe. Particular, I know! I looked and looked for patterns but didn’t find any that fit the bill, so turned to a TNT (tried ‘n’ true) t shirt pattern for a base.
That pattern was Ottobre Spring/Summer 2/2017 #1. Statement t-shirt, originally a loose-fitting, open neck tee which I had previously altered to make a crew-neck merino tee. This time, I laid the pieces against my Named Paola Turtleneck Tee pattern (previously made in cotton/elastane and merino) and brought the neck width/depth out slightly for a looser collar. To draft the collar, I cut a piece just scant of the circumference of the neckline by 40cm high, to be folded down.
The sleeve was already a good fit, so I lengthened by following the side seams to be slightly longer than the Paola sleeve at the hem, with a 2cm hem allowance for sleeves and 2.5cm for hem.
I took advantage of the Spotlight 40% off fabric sale to buy some 220gsm cotton spandex fabric (95% cotton, 5% elastane), which was warm enough for winter but had enough drape for the collar to fall into shape. Sewing it up was easy enough and took very little time. That’s one of the fantastic things about sewing knits – a few hours later and you have a new garment! (Or a few hours spread over a week or two of sewing, in my case.)
I loved the fit and feel of this top, but was ambivalent about the colour. Spotlight was out of black in this particular fabric, so I bought a dark grey marle. However, I had some leftovers of black knit from making leggings (yet to be blogged, if ever), so decided to use them to make another of these tops.
Now – this fabric was marketed as “performance knit”, 90% cotton, 10% elastane. I found it a little too thin for leggings, so assumed it would be perfect for a top. Yes and no.
The fabric is warm and stretchy, but far too thick at the collar for any kind of drape, so it just stands up there. I’m hoping it’s more 60s mod chic than direct from the Black Pepper catalogue.
So many years sewing and appropriate fabric choice still sometimes eludes me! (And don’t get me started on yarn choice.)
The details:
Pattern: Ottobre Spring/Summer 2/2017 #1. Statement t-shirt, altered
Pattern details: “Our T-shirt here has a slightly looser cut than usual, and its neckline and sleeve edges are finished with narrow ribbed binding.” Available from Ottobre Woman magazine, Spring/Summer 2/2017. Sizes 34-52.
Fabric: 1.5-2m x 148cm wide plain 220gsm cotton spandex fabric, dark marle, 95% cotton, 5% elastane; leftovers of 145cm wide Performance Cotton Lycra, black, 90% cotton, 10% elastane; both from Spotlight.
Other materials: Clear elastic to stabilise shoulders, from Aliexpress. Water soluble stabiliser for hems.
Mods: Size 42
– 6mm forward head adjustment, moved sleeve cap forward to match
– Brought neck in 3.6cm at shoulder and up 7.6cm front, 2.8cm back
– Drafted fold-over turtleneck collar, just scant of the circumference of the neckline and 40cm high
– Lengthened sleeve to full length by following existing side seams
– Added 1.5cm length to body
More reading:
Ottobre 2/2017 merino statement t-shirt
A very 70s outfit – Named Paola Turtleneck Tee and Ottobre 5/2016 #6 tweed skirt
Merino Paola Turtleneck Tee
Chronically Siobhan 
Cute tops! It always astonishes me how the same garment can wear so differently depending on the fabric.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’ve genuinely seen someone sew the same pattern in different fabrics and thought they were entirely different patterns! It makes a huge difference.
LikeLike
You’ve still managed to do more sewing than me – congratulations! I’ve mainly been knitting, doomscrolling, or (for the last three months) working ridiculously long hours. I’m back unemployed, so I hope I can sew again.
I made a few of those tops when I used to ski, but I used a soft invisible zip with a shorter neck; it is easier to get on, and works well if the day warms up.
I hem using a bobbin hand-wound with woolly nylon, and normal thread in the needle, and I use stabiliser too if the sample stretches. I wind the woolly nylon with almost no tension, and I play around with the stitch length to see what stretches. Twin needles tunnel for almost everyone!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I really should get onto the woolly nylon bandwagon – I’m sure it would improve my twin needling. I’ve also had overlocking thread snap on leggings before, which I’m sure woolly nylon would resolve. But I just can’t seem to get my head around buying yet another set of thread!!
LikeLike
I know, but woolly nylon isn’t the same – you usually don’t need an exact match (and as there are few colour options, you probably can’t get an exact match). Also, as it’s often not visible, you only need a colour that will blend – black, white, beige, light grey and dark grey will do most things, unless you need something like red or cobalt (which are available). Spotlight has patchy options at best, and my nearest one is the huge Bayswater store.
Last Christmas – due to frustration when I couldn’t find a colour I needed – I bought one of every colour I thought I’d use of Maxi-Lock Stretch Thread from https://www.rubyjam.net/ – and they contacted me to say that two I had picked looked identical, and would I like to swap one or delete from my order. Now that is service!
You might find it useful to soften seams that are against your skin, particularly if you are sensitive. It also makes a nice rolled edge or lettuce hem, using either an overlocker or zigzagged edge with a sewing machine. I’ve also used it in the bobbin when I didn’t have an overlocker and was sewing leggings.
Lastly, a tip – if you decide to use it in a needle, or have trouble threading it, dampen the end in glue and let dry. Makes a huge difference as that puffy thread can be very difficult to persuade through small holes.
LikeLike
They’re both cute! I would never have even contemplated the neck area but I can see what you mean how different fabrics would really make a huge difference. They look to have a nice drape though. Well done! My sewing this year consisted of masks with scrap fabric. Each mask turning out completely differently due to the fabric. Ended up resorting to Amazon so if/when it doesn’t fit correctly I can blame someone else. 😉
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m really happy that you got to sew this year! Even if you outsourced in the end, haha. I sewed that many masks and it’s extremely unsatisfying work.
LikeLiked by 1 person