Hello friends! It’s been a long time since I posted sewing content, largely because it’s been a long time since I sewed anything. Prior to contracting COVID in January, I sewed up a heap of shirts (yet to be blogged). But post-COVID, with Long COVID seriously affecting my health, I knew sewing was just too much for me.
I decided to test this theory by making a shirt from some fabric I had lying around. Well, my test proved my suspicions – I crashed hard and my body had an allergic reaction (!) to the process. Anyway. Here’s the shirt.
This is an Elbe Textiles Cornell Shirt, an oversized button up shirt with grandpa collar and dropped sleeves. My friend Naomi gifted me the pattern, knowing that it was just my style. I sewed it up in what I think is a cotton barkcloth (fabric identification is not my forte) from the op shop.
It was a narrow piece with a large square cut from the meterage, and generously donated along with the remainder of the fabric. This meant some pattern tetris was needed to fit the shirt on the fabric. I pieced the collar and yoke facings, and cut the collar and yoke shell on the lengthwise grain.
Otherwise, I made no more adjustments than my usual forward head adjustment. This pattern really just works as is.
I adore this shirt and have been wearing it as much as washing allows since making it. I actually have two previously sewn Cornells that are a more summer weight fabric, and I plan to make more. They’re just that good.
I have two little quibbles which you might be able to help me with: firstly, this fabric is absolutely not dye fast. I’m glad I realised this when I washed it alone to remove the washaway stabiliser and fabric marker, before putting it in with all my white towels. I’ve been washing it separately with a dye catcher which always comes out black, but I want to set the dye. How would you go about this? I think I’ve used Retayne in the past, but it’s expensive and hard to find in Aus.
Secondly: this shirt used up the last of my precious SheerWeft interfacing. I’m not kidding when I say I use this stuff in all of my projects. It’s just the right weight to not interfere with any fabric drape, but gives a little stability to collars, cuffs etc. Tragically, it’s been discontinued! What’s your favourite lightweight interfacing? If it helps, I think SheerWeft is known as Palmer/Pletsch Sheer in the US.
The pants are the Style Arc Brooklyn Knit Pant, in a ponte from MaaiDesign. I added 5cm length to the leg and I think did my own elastic insertion method, the usual “pyjama” feed through with a big safety pin for an adjustable fit, then topstitched it to stop any rolling. I also topstitched the pockets to the leg front so they don’t flap around.
There isn’t much to say as Style Arc patterns are typically well drafted and easy to wear, with a RTW look. They go with everything and are very comfy to wear.
Pattern: Elbe Textiles Cornell Shirt
Pattern details: “The Cornell Shirt is a casual, oversized design featuring drop shoulders and a grandpa collar. View A has a button up placket at the front, extending down past the waist, and View B has a classic button stand at the front. The insides are finished cleanly with a mix of French seams and facings.” Sizes AA-L (chest 82-142cm/32-56″).
Fabric: 2.4 x 115cm wide barkcloth (?) fabric – has had a 56cm square piece cut out and preserved. Large scale retro print. $1 from Salvos.
Other materials: Sheerweft interfacing. 10mm tortoiseshell buttons.
Mods: Size E, view B
– 1/2″ forward head adjustment at yoke and front, same to sleeve, lowered front neck a little (to next size) to compensate
– Omitted collar stand button
Pattern: Style Arc Brooklyn Knit Pant
Pattern details: “Opt for a luxe track pant style for a relaxed weekend. Knit pants have become a fashion favourite guaranteeing a warm casual day time look that’s both versatile and chic. The forward side seam creates a slimming silhouette along with the angles pockets.” Sizes AU 4-30 (hip 32.6-61″ / 83-154cm).
Fabric: 2m x 148cm wide ponte, black, from MaaiDesign. 67% viscose, 28% nylon, 5% spandex. 340gsm (heavy weight). Medium drape, 30% stretch cross grain and lengthwise.
Other materials: Knit elastic, from Spotlight.
Mods: Size 16
– Added 5cm length to leg at lengthen/shorten line
– Took out 1cm each leg piece (4cm total, 4cm taken from waistband) as I was in between a size 14 and 16