Now that I’m catching up on all my Muna and Broad makes, I thought I’d share some Hyde T-Shirts I’ve made. The Hyde T-Shirt is “a loose fitting knit top for effortless and easy dressing.” It has a boxy fit with the choice of short or long sleeves.
What makes the Hyde really special, in my opinion, is the option for the cross-over back for accessibility. This makes it easier for people with limited mobility to get dressed.
My first Hyde was made up in a beautiful cotton/spandex blend that was gifted to me by Nay. I used most of it to make a Paper Theory LB Pullover (yet to be photographed) so was glad to be able to eke the Hyde out of the scraps.
The only adjustment I made was to add 2cm length, which wasn’t quite enough and limits the kinds of pants I can pair it with. (I think being tall and having all store bought shirts naturally too short has put me off crop tops for life!)
When I came to sew the sleeves, I found the armscye was a good 4cm short than the sleeve cap. I didn’t think much of it when sewing and just eased it in, but usually the sleeve cap is larger than or the same dimensions as the armscye, not the other way around.
I walked the pattern for various sizes and found the issue consistent across sizing; I also noticed other versions of the Hyde on Instagram had the same look of a sleeve eased into an armscye (but this issue was absent on the official pattern photos). I contacted Muna and Broad who said the seamlines of the armscye and sleeve cap should be the same length, but I just couldn’t figure it out.
Despite this issue, I liked the fit enough to want to try again. So for my next Hyde, I fussed with it until I got the armscye and sleeve cap dimensions mostly aligned.
I did this by:
- Raising the underarm 1cm, maintaining the armscye curve, to shorten the armscye circumference.
- Adding 6mm width each side to the sleeve at underarm seamline, to nothing at hem fold line, to make the sleeve cap wider.
This isn’t perfect but it’s much better – you can see how the armscye isn’t collapsing into the sleeve in the green version.
I also added 7cm length (to the original pattern, so 5cm on the previous version), then whilst sewing, added a hem band instead of turning up the hem, which added another 1.5cm length. All over this version is 8.5cm longer than the pattern as drafted – like I said, I’m tall with a long torso.
Being a 100% cotton this version (green) has a different drape and fit to the cotton/elastane version (orange) but I like them both.
Besides the odd sleeve cap issue, I really like this pattern. I needed some boxy tees for summer and these fit the bill. I think they’d make a cute winter top in the long sleeve version, and I love the accessibility feature which makes dressing so much easier.
And if you’ve got any insight into the sleeve cap thing, please let me know!
The details:
Pattern: Muna and Broad Hyde T-Shirt.
Pattern details: “The Hyde T-Shirt is a loose fitting knit top for effortless and easy dressing. The silhouette is boxy and designed to fit the body beautifully. Both views feature a loose, comfy fit and a dropped shoulder. View B features an envelope back that is also an accessibility feature. The straight hemlines make this pattern perfect for stripes and we have drafted the neckband with our no-fuss application. The T-shirt can be sewn on a serger/overlocker or entirely on a regular domestic sewing machine”. Sizes A-M (chest 102-163cm/40-64″) with options for custom larger sizing.
Version 1: orange
Fabric: Leftovers cotton/spandex drapey knit, gifted.
Other materials: Clear elastic for shoulder seams.
Mods: View B (short sleeve) with cross back
– Added 2cm length to body
– Had to piece neckband due to fabric shortage
Version 2: green
Fabric: 2m x 112cm wide Urban Sprig Printed 112 cm Organic Cotton Jersey Fabric Green 112 cm, 100% Organic Cotton, 190 GSM, from Spotlight.
Other materials: Clear elastic for shoulder seams.
Mods: View B (short sleeve) with cross back
– Added 7cm length to body + used a hem band which added an extra 1.5cm length.
– 1/2″ forward head adjustment, same to sleeve cap and neckband.
– Used 6mm seam allowance (instead of 1cm) for body for extra width.
– To even up armscye and sleeve width:
○ Raised underarm by 1cm. Did this by tracing underarm shape (front and back), and moving up 1cm at underarm, joining to existing underarm curve.
○ Added 6mm width to sleeve at underarm seamline (not cutline), to nothing at hem fold line (not cut line).
○ It’s still slightly out on front (I think armscye about 5mm longer than sleeve head), but a lot better overall.
Chronically Siobhan 